I go out every weekend and shop the local yard sales. On one of my recent trips I can across a yard sale with alot of tools and other stuff for a very good prices. One of the things that causgth my eye were several hand planes. There were 5 stanleys in fairly good condition as well as an old craftsman 107-37039 rabitting plane that is an exact duplicate of a stanley #78. I purchased all of the planes for $2 a piece. The Stanleys included 2 #5s, 1 #110, 1 #220 and the plane shown below. With the exception of the the fact that the lever cap does not say stanley this plane is for all appearances a stanley #2. I am no plane expert and I do not know if all of the stanley #2s had stanley on the lever cap. I kow that it was not always embossed on lever caps I am just not sure that this is true of the #2. I will be asking the opinions of the plane gurus on BT3Central about this and will let you know what thier opinion is. Also I would like to gloat about the fact that at this same yard sale I picked up a Reddy 150,000 BTU torpedo heater in good condition for $8. The shop will definitely be warm this winter.

 

Well the word from the from the guys at BT3Central is that yes it is definitely a Stanley #2 produced between 1888 and 1925 and during that time they did not emboss the lever cap with Stanley. If you are interested in wood working and have not been to BT3Central you should stop by. It is graet site with alot of great people who are members.

For more detailed information on this plane and other stanley planes check out Patricks Blood and Gore

Here is an excerpt from his site:

#2 Smooth plane, 7"L, 1 5/8"W, 2 1/4lbs, 1869-1961. *

Another plane to smooth small areas. A smooth plane, according to some Stanley propaganda "is used for finishing or smoothing off flat surfaces. Where uneven spots are of slight area, its short length will permit it to locate these irregularities, leaving the work with a smooth surface when finished." Good ol' Stanley, providing us woodworkers with a smoother for all occasions. While the #2 is certainly scarce (when compared to the larger bench planes), proving that its use was rather limited, it nevertheless is a useful tool for when one is faced with some isolated stubborn grain or smoothing smaller pieces of work. Its small size permits it to work smaller areas more effectively than the larger and more common #4.

It's very difficult to close your hand around the tote on this one, unless you have small hands. Be very careful that the lever cap is proper for this plane - it's very easy to grind a #3 lever cap narrower to fit this plane. Look at the sides of the lever cap, when it's clamped in place - a ground #3 lever cap will have its sides projecting well above the highest point on each of the bottom casting's arched sides. Give the machining along the edges of the lever cap a close inspection to verify that it's a proper #2 lever cap.

A common area of damage on the #2's is at the very rear of the sole, or heel of the plane, where the threaded rod (used to secure the tote to the bottom casting) is received by a raised boss in the bottom casting. On some models of the plane, this area is not flush with the sole proper (there are some models that have this area flush with the sole), and sometimes can break. Inspect it carefully for repairs. Sometimes, the threaded rod will be tapped through the sole. This damage is clearly visible by flipping the plane over and looking at the sole. Similar damage can be found on the larger bench planes.

This plane never came equipped with the frog adjusting screw that was offered on the larger bench planes, nor did it experience the changes in the frog's receiver, save for the first (H-shaped) to the second (broad machined area) designs (see the #3 for an explanation and images of the changes in the frog's receiver). And for those of you who follow the type studies religiously (keep in mind that Stanley never knew about the type studies when they were making their stuff), this plane doesn't follow the study very well. It seems as if the Stanley employees, given the task of making #2's, were off in their happy, little #2-land, oblivious to the changes made to the plane's larger brothers. No model of the #2 has the patent date(s) cast into it, behind the frog.

The brass depth adjustment nut used on this plane is different from all the others. On most of the examples (excluding the very earliest ones, with their solid nuts), the nut is very slightly hollow (concave) and is noticeably shallower than those nuts used on the larger bench planes. Check that the nut hasn't been replaced with one off a larger plane.

A scarce late-production model of this plane measures roughly 1/2" longer than the earlier models. It almost passes as a #3, but its cutter is the usual 1 5/8"W. Examples of this plane usually have "BAILEY" cast at their toe, but they don't always, so have a tape measure handy to see if it measures 8" long. They also have the larger brass depth adjustment nut like those used on the larger bench planes. The cutter is not rounded at the top, but is angled as it was from the day it was first made. Most of these planes are japanned with the typical black paint, but the very last ones to leave New Britain are instead japanned blue.